Sunday, 6 April 2008

Question 15th C Embroidery

I need some help! After Siubhan pointed out that the challenge description states that the Something To Keep You Warm project should be 50% or more in a new stitch, I began thinking about using another cloak for my challenge project. I had agreed some time ago to embroidery a friend's arms on a cloak. She has a very broad persona, 1400-1499 modern day France. I've had no luck finding stitches that would have been used. If anyone can help tell me what stitches fit into this time and place, I'd be eternally grateful!
I'm now off to see if my textiles books can be of any help!


Melisende Fitzwalter said...

If I am not mistaken, for Heraldry especially, applique' had become popular in the 15th century, especially the really fancy stuff with gold or otherwise embellished borders. Don't know if this helps at all.

Racaire said...

I didn't do any research concerning this timeframe till now but I have to look through my books for another friend this week and I will keep my eyes open :)

Racaire said...

btw. I don't know if you already took a look at this page but I always very recommend the homepage Historical Needlework Resources - and there in this case especially the page concerning the 15th century:
I hope this helps a little.

Racaire said...

what about:

Cope of black velvet applied with the arms and fire steel device of the Duke of Burgundy. (Southern Netherlands - c.1475 -

"Another famous heraldic appliqué from about this same era is a set of three large semi-circular copes of black velvet, now in Switzerland, which were captured from the Burgundian forces at the battle of Murten in 1476. These bear appliquéd shields with the arms of Burgundy and Artois, and the rest of the surface is lavishly appliquéd with gold-embroidered “flames” and a large “fire-steel” motif, representing the badge of Duke Charles the Bold."

copyright Lanto Synge - Antique Needlework - ISBN0 7137 1007 1 - page 24:
"...Charming smaller items of costume to have lasted in greater numbers are alms purses. These were small bags which hung from the belts of rich men and contained such valuables as jewels, money and even relics. They were sometimes elaborately worked with figures and flowers in silks and metal threads. Caen in France was noted for making them.
Other European courts were equally splendid with magnificent needlework. The French dukes of the reigns of Charles V and Charles VI were most lavish and the Dukes of Burgundy and of Orléans were notable patrons of embroidery workshops. There are records of most expensive needlework ordered by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, for his duel in 1425 with Henry Duke of Gloucester at Bruges. A Parisian embroiderer, Tierry de Chastel, was called in to supervise the occasion and many others were summonded from France and the southern Netherlands to carry out impressive decorations. The Duke's personal embroiderer from Bruges, Simon de Brilles, and an artist, Colart de Voleur, were responsible for his tent, banners, tabards and horse trappings. The tent was of blue and white satin and was decorated with the coat of arms..."

I am sorry but I couldn't find more in my books but I hope this maybe helps a little.


Laren said...

Alot of French embroidery in that period was done in silk using split stitch. This would be appropriate for heraldic work.

As others have mentioned, goldwork was also used.


Ealasaid said...

As already said, definitely split stitch in colored silk threads. Gold, silver or gilt thread, top side couched with silk. Identical technique to Opus Anglicanum. The French extant items tend to be more secular in subject matter. Look for Aumonieres.

This type of embroidery done on linen and appliqued to velvet would be authentic.

Later towards the end of the century, Or Nue embroidery is the rage. Came out of the Netherlands - gold, silver or gilt threads couched with brightly colored silk - the metal thread only shows where there are highlights - but is mostly completely covered.

Many examples can be found here: